Black Fortress

Name: Black Fortress
Monument type: Castle
Region: Shirak Province
Periods: Medieval

Name: Black Fortress

Other nomination: Castle of Alexandrapol

Monument type: Castle

Region: Shirak

Community: Gyumri

Residence: Gyumri town

Location: It is located on the south-western hill of Gyumri city near the monument “Mother Armenia”.

Preservation: Only the “Black Fortress” tower is restored of the Alexandrapol Castle.

Coordinates: 40°46’56.65″ N 43°49’31.12″ E

Elevation: 1535 m

Era and chronology: The castle was founded in the XIX century, built in the 1830s-1850s.

Castle of Alexandrapol (Sev Berd): The Black-Stoned Protector of Gyumri

As you gaze upon the Castle of Alexandrapol, you can’t help but marvel at its striking presence. Exploring this glorious castle, which dominates the landscape with its strategic location and formidable design, allows you to embark on a captivating journey through Gyumri’s splendid history and the craftsmanship of its local artisans.

Here, the stories of skilled builders, resilient defenders, and a proud city converge to make you feel part of a magnificent past which comes alive within the imposing, black-colored stones of this castle.

Nestled atop the southwestern hill of Gyumri, Armenia’s cultural gem, the Castle of Alexandrapol or Sev Berd (Black Fortress), stands as an enduring testament to history. This imposing structure is a profound representation of architectural ingenuity and military significance.

During its construction, the Emperor Nicholas I of Russia personally oversaw the project in 1837. He was so impressed that he ordered the establishment of an Orthodox church within the fortress, naming it after St. Alexandra. The city, in turn, adopted the name “Alexandrapol,” a testament to the fortress’s influence.

The fortress complex was nothing short of remarkable, boasting barracks for up to 15,000 soldiers, warehouses for ammunition, equipment, and food, a robust three-story hospital, and various utility buildings. The fort’s 36 gunpowder rooms and 200 cannons showcased its formidable military strength.

The “Black Fortress” tower, the only part of the Alexandrapol Castle to be restored, is an architectural marvel in its own right. With its circular plan and multiple entrance openings at the base, it was a defensive powerhouse. Above these entrances, strategically positioned window-like openings allowed for cannons to be stationed, reinforcing the fortress’s impenetrability.

After the Crimean War, the “Black Fortress” and its counterpart, the “Red Fort,” were further fortified. These massive towers, constructed from black and red hewn tuff stone, earned their names from the hues of their materials. They were critical to the city’s defense, symbolizing Gyumri’s resilience in the face of external threats.

The Sev Berd’s historical significance extends beyond its imposing walls. Over the years, archaeologists have unearthed treasures that shed light on Gyumri’s past. Notable discoveries include a highly stylized clay figurine of a bull, offering insights into the artistic sensibilities of the era.

In 2005, during excavations near the “Sev Berd,” an astonishing conical well with a depth of 18 meters and a stone cover was uncovered. This remarkable find provides a glimpse into the engineering prowess of the time and the fort’s intricate infrastructure.

FACTS

❈ The Castle of Alexandrapol, also known as Sev Berd (Black Fortress), in Gyumri, Armenia, is a historical gem and a testament to architectural and military significance.

❈ Emperor Nicholas I oversaw its construction in 1837 and ordered the establishment of an Orthodox church within, leading to the city being named
“Alexandrapol.”

❈ The fortress complex was remarkable, with barracks for 15,000 soldiers, 36 gunpowder rooms, and 200 cannons, showcasing its military strength.

❈ The “Black Fortress” tower, the only restored part, is a defensive marvel with circular architecture and strategically positioned openings for cannons.

❈ Sev Berd’s historical significance is evident in archaeological discoveries, including a clay bull figurine and a deep, stone-covered well, providing insights into
Gyumri’s past and the fort’s infrastructure.

Research history

During the construction works in the territory of the “Alexandrapol” fortress, the “Soldier’s tomb” was discovered in 1875 (a weapon was found in the burial chamber, hence the tomb gets its name). The material with the relevant report was sent to S. Petersburg and it is kept in the Hermitage up to day. German historian Emil Rosslor conducted archaeological research at the foot of the southern tower, Black Fortress in 1900 and excavated 4 tombs. Excavations were carried out in the same area in 1908 and the findings are also kept in the Hermitage. During the earthworks near the “Alexandrapol” fortress, a cultural layer rich with pottery and other material remains was discovered in 1991. This area was known for its Early Iron Age tombs (the archaeological excavations in the area have been carried out by the expedition of the Shirak Geology Museum since the 1990s). Exploratory excavations with the total area of 130 sq. m were carried out here in 1993. A large number of shell fragments were found in the excavated area, mainly related to the Bronze Age. Tombs of different eras were discovered. The archaeological works of the southern tower of the “Alexandrapol” fortress, “Black Fortress” (Sev berd), continued since 2005, where a cemetery dating back to B.C. IX-VI centuries was discovered.

It was restored with the support of the Balasanyans family in 2013-2016.

Archaeological description

Location
The “Alexandrapol” fortress is a building with an almost rectangular plan stretched to the north-east, and due to the unevenness of the terrain, only one side was shaped: surrounded by fortress walls.

Architecture
In the 1830s, along with the growth of the settlement of Gyumri, its political, military and economic importance also increased. Due to this circumstance, on June 2, 1834, the Emperor Nicholas I of Russia issued an order on drawing up of a project for a new fortress. The fortress was built within 10 years according to the new rules of the fortress construction. Emperor Nicholas I arrives in Gyumri on October 3, 1837. Studying the site of the fortress, he decided to establish Orthodox church named after St. Alexandra. It is noteworthy that the newly built fortress was called Alexandrapol in 1836 and not Gyumri; having received the status of a city in 1837, Gumri also took on the name of the fortress Alexandrapol. The newly built fortress complex included barracks (for up to 15,000 soldiers), ammunition, equipment and food warehouses, a three-story hospital with solid stone walls, and various utility-economic buildings. The fort had 36 gunpowder rooms, 200 cannons, granaries filled with wheat and barley. After the Crimean War in the late 1850s, the right and left sides of the “Alexandrapol” fortress were protected by separate “Northern Fort” and “Southern Fort” fortifications. The two large towers built with black, red hewn tuff stone caused it to be called the “Black Fort” (“Southern”) and “Red Fort” (“Northern”) fortresses. These towers are defensive structures with a circular plan. They have several entrance openings at the bottom, and above them there were regularly arranged window-shaped openings for cannons to increase the defense and resistance of the fortress. Armories and other auxiliary structures were placed along the walls inside the forts.

🔨 Findings

During the 1993 excavations a highly stylized figurine of a bull made of clay was found.

In 2005, during the earthworks carried out in “Sev berd”, a conical well with 18 m depth and a stone cover was also opened.

Significance

The fort, built by the local skilled craftsmen, gave the city a unique splendor and solemnity with its glorious position. As an expression of a new view in the castle construction, the Alexandrapol Castle could not be compared to another similar structure in the region, which was truly considered one of the masterpieces of the century’s .military architecture.

Sources

Literature

I. Avagyan, cemetary of the “Black Berd” monument, Ancient culture of Armenia, Proceedings of the conference dedicated to the 70th anniversary of Telemak Khachatryan, Institute of Archeology and Ethnography of the National Academy of Sciences of Armenia, Yerevan, Mughni, 2003, pp. 128-134.
V. Harutyunyan 1992, Armenian history of architecture, Yerevan, “Luys”, 540 pages.
S. Ter-Margaryan, I. Avagyan, “Black Fortress” Monument’s Residence and Burial Field, Shirak’s Historical and Cultural Heritage, Proceedings of the Fourth
Republican Conference, RA NAS Shirak Center for Armenian Studies, Gyumri, 2000, pp. 9-11.
S. Ter-Margaryan, I. Avagyan, the late antique cemetery of the “Black Berd” monument, Foundations of Reports, Republican scientific session dedicated to the
1700th anniversary of Christianity, RA Ministry of Education and Science, Gyumri State Pedagogical Institute named after M. Nalbandian, RA Ministry of
Education and Science, Gyumri State Pedagogical Institute named after M. Nalbandian, Armenia, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 24-26.

List of monuments

Shirak 7.1.2